The Disappearing Front Porch

Before they go to kindergarten, children in Chicago learn to hit the floor at the sound of gunfire.One child age 16 or younger is murdered in the city every week on average. This has been happening for more than a quarter century, police records show. Neither homes nor streets are safe. Those are the first and second most likely places to get murdered in Chicago since 2001.The damage feels irreversible for those living this reality. Four families share what it's like to have their safe havens stolen, and describe their fight to take them back.Chicago (CNN)Gunfire erupts in the middle of the day. Etyra Ruffin, 10, is sitting on her father's lap on her grandma's front porch. Her friend, 11-year-old Devin Henderson is playing a video game downstairs near a window. In a split second, all hell breaks loose. "Get down!" Etyra hears people shouting. Devin's mother, Nanette Rios, starts screaming his name. He gets down on the floor as bullets hit the porch deck, splintering the wooden base. Nanette grabs Devin and drags him to her room as another bullet strikes the steel steps below the porch. Eytra's father, Travis, stumbles into the house and shields her from the gunfire. She notices her dad's shirt is covered in blood. Downstairs, in the bedroom closet, Nanette anxiously waits with her son. It's the safest spot she can think of. "Oh my God. Oh my God," Nanette repeats, waiting for the gunfire to subside. Finally, silence. Etyra with her grandmother on the porch where she was shot.Nanette's family is safe. She races out of her apartment and calls 911. She prays no one is dead as she runs to check on her neighbors. She sees Travis, Etyra's father. He had been shot in the back of the head, under his arm, in his chest and his leg. Nanette grabs a face towel and covers a wound on his neck. She tells him to focus on her. Then she spots a wound in his arm and wraps it tightly. Etyra's arm is bleeding. She is crying and in pain. But she's terrified about her dad."He got blood all over him," Etyra says. I'm not going to see him again, she thinks. This was September 1. Travis survived. For the past 15 years, someone has been murdered on a porch every three weeks on average, according to Chicago police records. Many are shot because they find themselves innocently in the line of fire. Sometimes they are caught in the middle of drug deals or gang violence. Other times it's about who they know or hang out with. Etyra is lucky. She dodged 12 bullets, faring with only a graze wound. She dreams of being a doctor someday and hopes being part of a grim statistic in Chicago won't hold her back. As Etyra talks about her hopes, the reality around her drowns them. Engines turn on and off as people cross the street to buy drugs in her neighborhood. Some walk down the street screaming profanities, flicking baggies or rolling joints. Devin seems keenly aware. He knows that throwing gang signs can get him killed, that guns are everywhere and that safety is scarce. So he doesn't go outside. "I feel scared in Chicago," Devin says. "All these people getting killed, I feel sad. I feel scared. I don't want to be shot."Michelle Stephan wakes up to the sound of gunfire and hears her family shrieking. "Not Dawson, please don't say it's Dawson!" they scream. She jumps out of bed and runs to her back deck, wearing pajamas and no shoes. Her son Dawson was outside talking with a friend before she went to sleep. He is now lying in the same spot on the deck.It is the 12th time her house has been shot at in three years. This time her 16-year-old son was shot in the head. Michelle bursts out crying and rushes up the steps of the deck. Her daughter-in-law calls 911. With her other son's help, she carries Dawson down the steps and toward the front gate. "Please don't go. Please don't go, just let me know you're staying with me. Stay with me," Michelle begs Dawson as they approach her van. Dawson's blood runs down her arms.Police arrive as Michelle tries to close the door of her van to rush Dawson to the hospital, but officers stop her, telling her paramedics are on the way. An ambulance rushes away with Dawson. Barefoot and in her blood-soaked pajamas she jumps in a police car and is driven to the emergency room, she says.Michelle keeps a memorial for her son Dawson in the living room. Dawson was on life support for six days before he was pronounced dead."It was very traumatic to sit there and watch him slowly die," Michelle says. "Feeling the warmth of his hands and his body and watching the coldness just leave."Michelle keeps her blood soaked pajamas in a clear plastic bag and says she hugs them and holds them close to her heart. It's how she can feel her son hug her back. She created a memorial on the back deck where her son was sitting before getting shot. No one is allowed on the deck, only a pot of white flowers rest there to remember Dawson, she says."Is there such a thing as a safe place?" Michelle asks. "What kind of country is this when you can't sit on your patio?" Police found nine shell casings at her home. Michelle doesn't feel safe inside her house either. She points to bullet holes that cross her entire house, from the front living room window, to her kitchen cabinets in the back of the house. Bullets puncture her entertainment center, a wall, and even a door frame. Investigators counted 34 bullet holes total. Police say they've been called to this home many times before and that it's known for gang-related activity -- an accusation Michelle adamantly denies.Michelle hangs thick blankets over her front windows to calm her fears. She worries a shooter could aim toward a shadow inside her home. "It's getting worse, and believe me, I used to be someone who would say it would never happen around here. It could never happen; it's such a beautiful community. And it has happened," Michelle says. "There is no safe place. As crazy as it sounds, it's true. You have to watch and be very diligent."Most murders in Chicago have occurred in homes and streets since 2001. Guns are used in 90% of the killings, according to Chicago police. The violence is not isolated to one neighborhood. Each dot shows the location of a homicide in a place considered a safe space – a home, an apartment, a front yard or porch – since 2001.Source: Chicago police department, as of 12/1/2016Stephanie sometimes drives to a park far away so her kids can play outside.Stephanie Armas glares over the metal gate from her front porch and begins her daily morning patrol.She observes the vibe of the street with a keen eye. Stephanie walks towards the local liquor store and back home, tracking who is coming and going. Only then she decides if her grandchildren can play outside.It's hard to tell if it will be a calm day, or one when gangs will try to settle a score."If they are having some kind of disagreement on either one of the corners, I don't allow my kids to come out," Stephanie says. "I'm ready to buy everybody bullet-proof vests the way they are popping these kids." When she sees a heavy police presence or random people casing the street on bikes, she doesn't let her children outside either, she says. Instead, she teaches them to duck and dodge bullets and stay away from windows."It hurts me to tell them that they can't go out to enjoy the fresh air and play in the sun," Stephanie says. "It's very disheartening to have to tell them that; but it keeps them safe." Stephanie moved to the Grand Crossing neighborhood to avoid being on constant guard. She left the infamous Englewood neighborhood on Chicago's south side about six months ago, hoping her grandkids could play outside in a new ZIP code. But, that's not what happened. "It's terrible," Stephanie says. "It's just as bad here in this neighborhood as it is in Englewood."The most common place for murders in Chicago, since 2001, is a city street, police records show. Shootings happen so often, Stephanie says, people even use shooting locations as landmarks and can easily rattle them off. It sounds something like this:"This guy was shot here. The little girl was shot there. Remember on the next block the bullet hit this guy?" Stephanie says.Stephanie's family hasn't fallen victim to Chicago's violence, and she wants to keep it that way. "There is violence everywhere. You can't run from it." Stephanie says while standing on her front steps. "It's the city we live in; but you have to learn how to survive in it."On a sidewalk in Englewood, Quentin Mables ponders how to free his childhood neighborhood from chronic violence. The homes on either side of him are riddled with 30 to 40 bullet holes. He knows how his neighborhood got this way, and how easy it is for young men to get sucked into the cycle of violence. Quentin started carrying a gun to protect himself and his family after he and his friends were shot at while playing basketball. Quentin hit rock bottom when he woke up in an eight-by-ten jail cell in 2014, facing a weapons charge. He remembers leaving behind his daughter, Zariyah, who was only three years old."That's what hurt me the most," Quentin says. "I knew that there was a little girl that needed my help, that needed my time." Quentin uses that experience to propel him to build a better future for his daughter and to lift his community out of violence and poverty.His contribution is easily seen by driving down Honore Street in Englewood. The house on the corner of 64th Street turns heads, with its colorful fence decorated with art and a beautiful garden. They call it the "Peace House," and it's the home of the non-profit organization "I Grow Chicago." Quentin is the co-executive director and the yoga instructor.Quentin teaches children yoga at the Peace House.It is a place with summer and after-school programs for children. Parents can also get school supplies, toiletries and clothing for their families when their budgets are tight. "If there was a Peace House on every block in Englewood, you wouldn't see the violence you normally hear about," Quentin says. "The more and more we bring in resources, the more and more that you will see the crime deteriorate." Part of the success is due to how the Peace House was built -- literally. Robbin Carroll, who isn't from the neighborhood, bought the dilapidated home with its overgrown yard in 2013. Shortly after the purchase, she founded I Grow Chicago. She hired young men -- some covered in tattoos, others with long rap sheets -- to rebuild it and to plant the garden. Her strategy was to help people in the neighborhood help themselves. But police officers warned her she was taking a huge risk. "The man you are doing this with is a cold-blooded killer," Robbin remembers an officer telling her one day while she was gardening. Robbin didn't flinch. This was not about what the men had done in the past, but what the community could do together to move forward. "If we each took a block and made the block thrive, we could completely end all this chaos," Robbin says. Quentin and Robbin say the violence around the Peace House has dropped; they remain optimistic, but cautiously so. In the middle of the night about eight months ago, Robbin says a bullet shattered the upstairs window and punctured the wall of the tutoring room. She refuses to patch up the hole left in the drywall."You are safe emotionally in our house; but I can never say that you can be safe here. So I refuse to putty over the bullet hole," Robbin says. "That always reminds us that it could be one of us in that spot."CNN's Jake Carpenter, Leonel Mendez, and Kenneth Uzquiano contributed to this report.

The  Disappearing  Front Porch 1

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MARCH 15, 1981 This is a digitized version of an article from The Times's print archive, before the start of online publication in 1996. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them. Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems. Please send reports of such problems to . ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- KAREN LOHELA WOODWORTH is a writer and a French instructor at Ohio University. By KAREN LOHELA WOODWORTHFrance is expensive, say returning travelers, but it need not be. True, $100 may buy you only one night in a grand hotel; on the other hand, $100 may also cover the costs of several weeks of camping, which is what my husband, Bob, and I did. And we are not backpacking students hoofing it between hostels; we are a pediatrician an a writer who, in order to remain civil to each other and to the world in general, consider such amenities as daily hot showers and clean clothes absolute necessities. We got them by doing our camping on the grounds of chateaus, using their bathing and laundry facilities and enjoying their park-like settings. There is, we discovered, a network of chateau owners throughout France who welcome campers, and economy is just one of the attractions of a trip from one of these country homes to another.We came down the Rhone Valley on the Autoroute du Soleil, which was jammed with vacationers hauling boats and trailers toward the Mediterranean. South of Lyon, at Chanas, we picked up National Route 7, the two-lane highway that snakes along the Rhone River and which used to carry all the north-south traffic before the autoroute was built parallel to it. We were looking for the Chateau de Senaud, where we hoped to camp that night. We did not have a reservation but it was still early in the afternoon.A small sign pointed to an empty road that threaded its way through shimmering grain fields. We followed it, narrowly missing a combine that suddenly backed out from a barn fronting on the road. A narrow drive tunneled through dark trees, past a field, over a stream and uphill through the woods. At the top stood the chateau compound. We entered through an archway in thick, yellow stone walls. Inside, a blue-roofed house of graceful proportions dominated a cluster of low buildings. At the office we were greeted by a woman dressed in a black skirt, white sweater, dark socks and sturdy sandals. La Comtesse D'Armagnac de Castenet, we later learned. Three nights? Yes, we could be accommodated. Please follow her.AdvertisementThe countess strode briskly down a pebbly lane as we trotted behind. We passed a tiny grocery shop in a stone outbuilding and a one-story block of sanitary facilities. On the other side of a stone wall we came to the camping area. She slowed and gestured to her left. Was this all right? Yes, perfect. She bid us adieu.AdvertisementWe dug into our borrowed van, hauled out our tent, and quickly set it up in one of the most agreeable and unusual campgrounds we have found anywhere.But not unique, we discovered. The Chateau de Senaud is one of more than 40 private camps in a network called Castels et Camping-Caravaning; the network was founded in France in 1959 by owners who were trying to keep their properties intact as maintenance costs escalated. The camps have to meet certain high standards regarding facilities and services, but each landowner manages his or her own camp. I thought it fun to meet titled proprietors - one might think of them as the working nobility - involved in the day-to-day operation of their camps: overseeing the camp grocery store or restaurant, cutting the grass or greeting guests.In addition to campsites some owners also offer accommodations in the chateau itself or rent furnished trailers (what Europeans call caravans). But we were well equipped with the basics: sleeping bags, air mattresses, flashlight, ground cloth and our tent, a lightweight, externally-supported Eureka that is billed as a four-person tent but is really just right for two. We had stuffed all the gear into a large duffel bag that we could check as one piece of luggage.At the Chateau de Senaud we paid less than $6 a night; the average for most Castels sites is $5 to $8 a night for two adults in a tent. Senaud is average-sized, accommodating 300 campers. (Castels camps measure size by number of people rather than campsites, since individual campsites are not always marked out.) It is open from March 1 to November 30. In July and August, when we were there, it filled up by mid-afternoon. Most of the campers were French or Dutch but there were a few English, German and Belgian guests as well, and even when the camp was full we did not feel cramped.Bathing and lavatory facilities at the Castels sites were excellent; plenty of hot showers, flush toilets and an outlet for my blow-dryer. (My dryer switches from 120 to 220 volts, and I brought an adapter plug to fit European outlets.)Senaud has two sets of facilities, one installed in an outbuilding near the chateau and the other, a newer row of a dozen individual compartments containing either a shower, a toilet or a sink with mirror and electrical outlet. Behind the sanitary block are big sinks for washing dishes, a drinking fountain and a washing machine. Many camps have coin-operated washers and dryers, which is handy because nearby villages may not have such facilities.There are other amenities, too, that set Castels sites apart from other European campgrounds. At the Chateau de Senaud, for example, I loved the craft shop that the countess's daughter opened each evening in one of the old outbuildings. Guests were welcome to browse among the locally-made weavings and pottery and chat with Mademoiselle.AdvertisementFacing the craft shop and tucked into what had been stables are a small art gallery, a game room for kids and a bar. I liked the walk down the wooded hill and across the stream to the swimming pool, set in the middle of an open field. The tennis court was at the field's edge, next to the woods, and was shaded in the late afternoon.The grocery shop was open morning and evening to sell fruit, soda and wine, a few canned and frozen foods and crusty loaves of bread. We were used to buying a block of ice every day, which would keep food in our small cooler chilled for 24 hours, but Senaud's shop did not sell ice. Instead, like many campgrounds, Senaud permitted campers to use the grocery shop's deepfreeze for overnight freezing of the sealed plastic containers of coolant that have become popular for use in ice chests. Camps usually charged 1 to 3 francs (25 to 75 cents), depending on the size of the containers.We kept our cooler stocked with items we considered basic: Granny Smith apples, bananas, yogurt, juice, water, a bottle of wine, cheese and sliced meat, cornichons, cucumbers and tomatoes, mustard, butter and jam. After an early-morning walk to the camp's grocery shop for a sometimes still-warm baguette and a few flaky croissants, we had all the makings of a hearty breakfast and lunch.Evenings we reserved for seeking out restaurants and trying regional specialties; $10 to $15 a person was usually sufficient for a good three- or four-course dinner with vin ordinaire.At Senaud it did not really matter that the chateau itself was a tiny bit unkempt, with one wing shuttered and grown over with vines. The chateau reigned over the blue and orange tents scattered around its flanks like a grande dame determined to maintain respectability and propriety despite slightly straitened circumstances.Tourists often simply shoot through the Rhone Valley, with maybe one overnight stop between Paris and the Cote d'Azur, but it is a region worth exploring. Churches, abbeys, chateaus, restaurants and vineyards baking in the sun beckon the slower traveler. West of the Rhone lies the Ardeche, hilly countryside cut by river gorges and full of villages experiencing a revival of local crafts. East of the Rhone is the lavender-scented Drome River Valley; the Drome's source is the Alps.The Chateau de Senaud is well situated for side trips into the Ardeche and the Drome. A dozen miles south of Senaud, for example, is the terraced granite hill of Hermitage, rising above a bend of the Rhone at Tain-l'Hermitage. The Romans made wine here, and the vineyards still produce the Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage appellations.Across the Rhone and north about the same distance, along a steep hill perfectly aligned to the sun, lie the vineyards of Cote Rotie. Here one is near Vienne, a city noted for its Roman temple and theater, its Romanesque cloisters and Gothic cathedral, and for the restaurant called Pyramide.AdvertisementWe did not make it to Pyramide but we did discover good dining closer to Senaud. Ten minutes' drive south in St. Vallier is an elegant small restaurant that one enters through the courtyard of the Hotel des Voyageurs. Its artfully served, four-course prix-fixe dinners started at $9.Though the Chateau de Senaud was my favorite, other camps in the Castels network were nearly as agreeable. The thick-walled Chateau de Boisson is 63 miles northwest of Avignon in the departement of Gard. Here the hot sun ripens peaches, apricots, cherries, melons and grapes, and the summer weather is glorious. On the western edge of the Gard rise the low but rugged Cevennes mountains where Robert Louis Stevenson took his ''Travels With a Donkey.'' The 17th-century chateau, off the beaten track in the foothills of the Cevennes, was small, squat and sort of homey. Well-planned hedges marked out each campsite, offering a nice touch of privacy. Boisson is smaller than Senaud, accommodating only 150 campers, and reservations a day ahead of time are recommended.Please verify you're not a robot by clicking the box.Invalid email address. Please re-enter.You must select a newsletter to subscribe to.View all New York Times newsletters.Walks in the countryside took us by fields of lavender, thyme and showy yellow broom flowers. There was a dog-eared collection of books, a pool and fishing in the river for the more sports-minded, rooms for rent in the chateau, and a little restaurant and bar open evenings in the chateau's basement. There was also a loud bell in the neighboring chapel that chimed the quarter hour all night; I wished I had a set of earplugs.Blond-haired Madame, who spoke excellent English, ran the grocery, which was not too well stocked. A greengrocer came by two or three times a week with fresh produce. Opposite the chateau there was a tiny, friendly shop that offered a slightly better choice of provisions.Camp facilities were kept very clean by an energetic and friendly crew of Dutch students. Guests expecting elegance, because Boisson is a chateau, would be sorely disappointed. It is more like a casual country retreat, only slightly rundown, where we had a good time strolling down a quiet country road as the sun set behind the Cevennes.Within a few hours' drive of Boisson is Roman Gaul: the wellpreserved ruins in Nimes, Orange and Arles. Even the most seasoned travelers stop to marvel, as I did, at the three-tiered Pont du Gard leaping 900 feet across the Gard river and carrying the Roman aqueduct that brought water to Nimes from sources 30 miles away.Two hours from Boisson is Avignon with its ramparts, broken bridge over the Rhone, a summer arts festival and a papal palace built during the papacy's 14th-century sojourn in France. I much preferred the quiet and the wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the site of the pope's hilltop summer palace.A third Castels camp we enjoyed was in the departement of Var, in Provence. We came up from the southeast, from St. Tropez, on the narrow road that winds across the Massif des Maures toward the regional capital of Draguignan.I was moved by a stop at the American military cemetery in Draguignan. The only other visitors at the time, two French couples, murmured quietly. The neat rows of white crosses on the manicured green surrounded a huge bronze relief map detailing the Allied landings in southern France in August of 1944.AdvertisementFrom Draguignan the departmental road ran northwest. We passed villages with landscapes that recalled the paintings of Van Gogh and Cezanne. By one such village, Regusse, lies the Castels camp called Les Lacs du Verdon. This addition to the network is minus a chateau but boasts two fine tennis courts. We rented decent racquets and tennis balls several times. We also learned that court reservations for the cooler hours of the day need to be made a day or two in advance.The camp sits in an unbroken expanse of scrub-pine woods. We chose a campsite in a piney glen but the fiery sun still shone through on us at midday so Bob strung up the tent's rain fly overhead between trees for shade.Next door to us camped a couple from Dublin. We shared maps and stories and recommendations for other Castels camps, and in the evenings we watched teen-agers on the outdoor dance floor by the pool. The camp has an arrangement with a sailing club at Lac de Sainte Croix that lets campers rent sailboats or learn to wind surf for $10 a half day. Across the lake, in mountainous terrain, is the spectacular canyon of the Verdon river.Not much else is near the camp, save forestland and the villages of Regusse and Moissac-Bellevue. Regusse has one white-washed, familyrun restaurant with a fireplace taking up an end wall. Bob had good quail and I liked the country pate but otherwise we found the meals - for which we paid $7 a person for three courses - quite ordinary.Dining was a little fancier in Moissac-Bellevue. There was a hillside resort there, Le Calalou, with an open-air dining room where we enjoyed Caribbean specialties. Fish was prominent on the menu, and my entree of little crayfish in a spicy brown sauce was particularly good. Complete meals began at $12.The attitude of most campers we met is summed up by an incident that occurred toward the end of the trip. We had decided to wax the van before returning it to our friends. We had been busily polishing for two hours when a neighboring camper put down his pipe and book and eased out of his chair.''My wife and I have been watching you,'' said the Englishman, ''and you're exhausting us. Won't you take a break and have a drink with us?'' Of course, we did. If You Go ... ...chateau camping, write to the French Government Tourist Office (610 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10020, 212-757-1125) and ask for general information on camping in France. For a Castels et Camping-Caravaning directory - for each camp it includes a color picture, a map, a description of facilities and activities, dates open and whether the proprietor also rents rooms or caravans - write to Castels et Camping-Caravaning, 169 Avenue Victor Hugo, 75116 Paris, France.Reservations are recommended during July and August. A telephone call a day or two ahead of arrival was always sufficient for us. English is usually understood, though a little French is helpful. Camp offices are frequently closed for lunch between noon and 3 P.M.AdvertisementAll the major car rental companies operate in France, with fairly similar prices. Rates frequently include unlimited mileage and, except for larger cars, the option of returning the car to a French city other than your beginning point without a drop-off charge.For the rental of a nine-passenger Volkswagen bus at $399 a week try Auto Europe (21 East 40th Street, New York, N.Y. 10016, 212-578-4400 or 800-223-5555), a company that also leases cars for three weeks or longer, which is more economical than the standard rental. A Talbot Horizon, for example, could be leased for $550 including insurance and the value-added tax. The company's cars may be leased in Paris and left in Lyon, Bordeaux, Perpignan, Toulouse, Marseille or Nice.In addition to basic camping gear we also stashed two plastic plates, two knives and forks and a Swiss army knife in my suitcase. Once in France buy a Styrofoam ice chest, some woven mats to sit on and a Michelin road map. Map 916, printed on both sides and less cumbersome to unfold, is a good one for all of France.On the flight over we checked three items: two small canvas suitcases plus a duffel bag. That left room for a fourth piece of checked baggage coming home: a case of wine. We carried our camera and a sturdy canvas bag for shopping and trips to the beach.Go light on clothes. For the month-long camping vacation we took I found sufficient a sundress, a dress for dining out, a quilted jacket, a turtleneck sweater, nice jeans, three pairs of shorts and T-shirts, underwear, sandals, tennis shoes, bathing suit, beach towel, face towel and washcloth. Bob brought a khaki jacket, jeans, two knit shirts, V-neck sweater, two long pants, three pair shorts and T-shirts, underwear, tennis shoes, sandals, leather shoes, swim trunks, beach towel, face towel and washcloth. We chose to trust in the traditionally sunny summer weather in southern France and left raingear at home. - K.L.W.A version of this article appears in print on March 15, 1981, on Page 10010001 of the National edition with the headline: TWO LOW-COST WAYS OF GETTING CLOSE TO EUROPE'S GLORIES PITCHING YOUR TENT OF THE GROUNDS OF A FRENCH CHATEAU?. Order Reprints| Today's Paper|Subscribe
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